Hiking, hiking and more hiking. What else would one do in a country that offers you stunning landscapes come spring and summer? Hiking, of course, if I haven’t already mentioned it.
As days get warmer and you begin to see life on the ground and in the air, I yearn to strap on my hiking boots. As tiny saplings pop out of the ground, little critters start to show their half-sleepy faces to the world, and birds of all breeds sing in chorus in the skies, my half-hibernating mind suddenly bursts with ideas on places to hike. This spring has inspired me to spend a hiking weekend in Mürren.
Getting to Mürren
There are different ways to get to the car-free village of Mürren. If you are coming from Lauterbrunnen or Stechelberg, take the cableway to Grütschalp and transfer to the train. And if you are coming from Bern or Thun, as we do, Stechelberg is your transfer point for the cable car.
Located high above the valley floor, Mürren is entirely car-free. The Stechelberg cable car station offers enough overnight parking. And after a mere five-minute ride, we are already in the small mountain village of Mürren. One step out of the cable car and one leap into the town is enough to transport me to a world like no other.
In Mürren, everything seems a bit old, but in a charming way.
Historic wooden houses laced with classic red geranium bushes, little cafes, and old-fashioned hotels give this village a medieval feel.
There appear to be more hotels than residences, which explains why it is pretty crowded during the skiing season. I am already excited to be here and anticipate what is to come.
How to do the Mountain View Trail in Mürren
After the customary checking-in at our hotel, we buy sandwiches and water from a small bakery and set off on our hike. We decide to head in the direction of Schilthorn and hike the Mountain View Trail. How long can we walk uphill before returning to camp?
This is one of the first hikes of the season. And we know that going to the top of Schilthorn is wishful thinking, at least for the time being. And off we go.
It is a decision we do not regret in the least. Sometimes, it is best not to set unattainable goals but just enjoy the process of discovering, as if each discovery were itself the goal. It is worth it.
We hike past little creeks and streams and occasionally cross paths with other hikers. Despite being a lovely weekend, the best thing about this hike is that we hardly see other hikers. One of the reasons could be that people take the cable car straight to Schilthorn. Up there, they might spend more time in the rotating restaurant or at the museum.
Of course, the claim to fame of Schilthorn is the 1968 shooting of the James Bond film, On Her Majesty‘s Secret Service, starring George Lazenby. If only the new Bond movie with Daniel Craig were filmed there, I would hike all the way up. And I would set up camp and watch the man in flesh... (This is my personal opinion and taste, of course – comments are welcome!)
Hiking in Mürren comes with a view
The best part of our hike is the view of three peaks: Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Within just an hour of embarking on our hike, these iconic mountains unfold in front of our eyes.
I remember seeing the same peaks from the vantage point of Schilthorn on a cold winter day. It feels good revisiting them on this bright and sunny spring day.
Here is an ideal spot to grab those sandwiches and gape at the beauty of the three peaks. Afterward, we set off to hike in the direction of Schilthorn. We almost reach the Schilthornhütte restaurant but decide to head back to the village before it gets dark.
In total, we hiked about six hours and witnessed quite a few weather changes, but thankfully it never rained. After a long and visually rewarding but physically exhausting hike, we are finally en-route to the village, eagerly waiting to devour a huge meal.
Next time, we will likely hike all the way up to Piz Gloria. But for now, the goal is to reveal the muscle stored beneath the blubber amassed during the winter... I am on it!